Showing posts with label IPA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label IPA. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Kinn: Vestkyst IPA – Remarkably accessible and harmonious


As Norway’s westernmost town, Florø’s coastal setting and lively atmosphere makes it one of most attractive places to visit in western Norway. With a population that barely breaches 10,000, Florø is the home to fish processing, shipbuilding, petroleum, and, with the 2009 opening of Kinn, brewing can now be added to that list. Congratulations Florø, for Vestkyst IPA is testament to Kinn’s attention to quality and perfection, and their ability to make beers that rival many of the brews from the more ‘matured’ breweries around.

The word Kinn (literally cheek) is the name given to one of the outermost islands that buffers Florø from the open sea (see map to the right), although it was also the name of an earlier municipality that was eventually merged into the surrounding municipalities. I can only speculate that the place name “Kinn” might be attributed to the fact that area forms the westernmost point, or “cheek”, of Norway’s coastline, although this again is only speculation on my part.

Kinn brewery makes about six different beers – all of which are remarkably wonderful concoctions. Kinn takes a rather traditional approach to beer-making by using open fermentation tanks and an English handpump to tap the beer. Brew master Espen Lothe also bares his grounded philosophy to brewing when commenting that “my job is not to make beer, but to help the yeast cells to produce beer” (Dagbladet). Lothe’s approach and philosophy are undoubtedly causes for Kinn’s remarkable brewing success.

Vestkyst (literally west coast) IPA is simply amazing, and is a must try for IPA lovers. Popping the cork immediately releases the sweet smells of a well-hopped ale that’s ambitious to please its drinker. Pouring Vestkyst into a glass reveals a hazy amber-colored body and fluffy off-white head, although I expected it to tower a bit more than what it did. Giving the glass a generous swirl yields a tight and sticky, web-like lacing matrix. Aroma? Think pineapple and resin, but with distinct tones from the malt, most notably caramel. 

Vestkyst’s mouthfeel is pleasant and pretty faithful to this particular style – smooth, well carbonated with a medium-light body. Taking a generous mouthful brings out a wonderful array of flavors, including the more prominent tastes of grapefruit, pine, and the deliciousness of mango. The malt support, especially the caramel flavor, is perhaps a bit too forward for an IPA, but it blends rather harmoniously with the surrounding flavors, giving is a level of accessibility that is surprisingly high for an IPA. But, not to be let down, Vestkyst delivers a powerfully dry and punchy bitter finish that speaks volumes to the quality of this IPA.

All-in-all, Vestkyst testifies to Kinn’s attention to quality and perfection, and their ability to make beers that rival some many of the brews from the more ‘matured’ breweries around – quite remarkable for such a young brewery. While the malt flavors are perhaps a bit too forward for an IPA, the complexity of flavors blends together with a remarkable level of harmony and accessibility. In fact, if I wanted to turn someone on to IPAs, Kinn’s Vestkyst might very well be the one I’d choose to use.

Links


Image credits


Sunday, January 15, 2012

Mikkeller: USAlive – An even more sensational synthesis

After raving to my friends and writing a blog post about the “sensational synthesis” of Chouffe’s Dobbelen IPA Tripel, quite a few folks recommended Mikkeller’s USAlive as an even better synthesis of the finest traditions of Belgian strong ales and the intensity of American-styled IPA. To those of you who recommended USAlive, your recommendations were spot on: Mikkeller’s USAlive is without a doubt an even better synthesis and one of the best beers I’ve had over the past few months.

While Mikkeller officially hails from Copenhagen, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, Mikkeller’s brewmaster, manager, et al., brews beer in a variety of locations throughout Europe and the United States. Mikkeller’s USAlive is brewed at De Proefbrouwerij, which lies in a small rural village just a few kilometers northeast of Ghent. What makes USAlive most interesting is Mikkeller’s choice of using Brettanomyces yeast, which imparts a bit of a funky or rough taste. For those of you familiar with different beer brands and styles, but less familiar with yeast strains, Brettanomyces, or “Brett” as it is sometimes called, is commonly found in lambics, and features in other tasty treats like Orval, Liefmans Brown Ale, and Rodenbach Grand Cru.

When tapping USAlive into a glass, the hazy copper color, medium-sized and resilient creamy off-white head, and incredibly dense and sticky lacing are signs of the remarkable level of quality that’s about to come. The aroma has a rather light footprint, but is well-balanced and relatively complex. It’s pretty much what one would expect from a Trappist and an IPA: The piney and slightly florally hop notes from the IPA style and the fruity-sweet notes from the Trappist style battle it out for the drinker’s attention. However, the faint horse blanket note from Brettanomyces delivers a decisive victory for the Trappist style.

USAlive’s aroma more or less predicts the range of tastes to come. It starts out on the sweet side, where the fruity tastes of the Trappist genre play out. Brett makes its appearance about halfway through by bringing in a hint of barnyard funkiness accompanied by a strong grapefruit taste undoubtedly from the hops. The finish is distinctly IPA: intensely bitter and dry, although in this case the bitterness is not nearly as biting as I expected. The mouthfeel is medium and comes with an average amount of carbonation.

Overall, this is a complex and well-balanced synthesis. The various flavors battle it out, but in a way that brings a lot of harmony to the aroma and flavor structure. Both styles – Trappist and IPA – are well represented, with the overall balance favoring the Belgian tradition. Mikkeller’s USAlive certainly reflects Mikkel’s ceaseless capacity to make some of the most interesting, innovative, and complex brews around.

Links

Mikkeller USAlive on Ratebeer

Mikkeller USAlive on BeerAdvocate

Image credits

http://www.jarngler.is/

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Nøgne Ø: Two Captains – Defying the Laws of Gravity

For an updated and more thorough review, please read my Two Captains update.

Nøgne Ø Two Captains is a must try for those that love IPAs. Two Captains has the aggressiveness of not just one fighter pilot, but two, just as its name suggests. It all begins with the aggressive head that just keeps defying the laws of gravity and a wonderful copper-colored appearance so characteristic of robust imperial IPAs. Two Captains' aroma is complex and – aside from the florally and hoppy scents – sort of hard to pin down. Faint earthy smells accompany the scents of orange and maybe peach. Other reviewers mention odors like “caramel and grass” (saxo), along with “fruity hops [and] piney grapefruit” (anders37). Whatever the case may be, Nøgne Ø brewed some serious nose candy with this one.

With an 8.5 percent ABV, the taste of Two Captains continues to show this ale’s aggressiveness, revealing a mixture of flavors that match the aroma. Quite a few reviewers mention pine and mild alcohol tastes, both of which I also found. This thing is hop heaven and, at 100 IBU’s, it’s amazingly bitter. That said, Two Captains has a bitterness that lacks the burning sensation that one gets from other similarly styled ales. Moreover, to my slight disappointment, the bitterness vanishes surprisingly early after swallowing; other similarly styled ales seem to tingle on for just a little bit longer than this one. Overall however, Two Captains is as aggressive as its label suggests and, if you manage to find it, it’s well worth a taste.




Links


Nøgne Ø, Two Captains on Beeradvocate: http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/7730/62520

 

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